This video serves as a rapid-fire guide for building faster cars in Forza Horizon 5, specifically for beginners, focusing on the "build" aspect within a 10-minute timeframe.
The core principles for building are to always aim for the top of a PI (Performance Index) class, as any points below the maximum are considered wasted performance. It's important to remember that PI is not a perfect indicator of speed; cars with the same PI can perform differently. Generally, cars perform best when upgraded to their stock class or just one to two classes higher, as excessively upgrading a low-class car can make it difficult to drive and uncompetitive. While guidelines are provided, the video emphasizes that there are exceptions, and experimentation is encouraged as the meta evolves.
The building process is recommended to start from the bottom up, beginning with conversions. Powerful engine swaps like the 6.2 2L V8, Racing V12, or 2L inline 4 VVT are highlighted if available and within budget. Sticking with the stock engine is also advised if unsure. For aspiration, the Centrifugal Supercharger is noted as a top upgrade, with turbo upgrades being a viable option for significant PI jumps. However, many cars perform well remaining naturally aspirated. Drivetrain conversions, like swapping to all-wheel drive, can improve handling but are generally recommended for beginners to stick with the stock drivetrain. Front-wheel drive is competitive up to A-class, while higher classes favor rear or all-wheel drive.
Moving to aero, the video distinguishes between adjustable and non-adjustable parts. Adjustable front aero is considered one of the best upgrades, especially for higher classes. Parts that reduce drag are preferred, while those that increase it should be avoided. Adjustable rear wings can be appealing due to their low or even negative PI cost, but the increased drag might not always be worth it, especially in lower classes.
Tires and rims are critical. Stock and street tires can work for lower classes, but sport tires are generally advised against. Rally or drift tires are recommended for road racing builds in B to S1 class. Full racing slicks are for higher classes, though semi-slicks have some utility. For off-roading, off-road race tires are usually the best, with stock tires sometimes being optimal for classes below B due to PI cost. Rear tire width upgrades are almost always beneficial, while front tire width should generally be left stock, especially with adjustable front aero. Wheel choice and size can affect weight and PI, with some meta builds using heavy, large wheels to allocate more PI budget elsewhere, though this effect is minor. Track width can also be adjusted for handling balance.
In drivetrain upgrades, clutch upgrades are beneficial for older, slower cars or if using automatic/clutchless shifting. Modern sports cars and manual clutch users typically don't need them. Sport transmissions are often a cheap or PI-reducing upgrade that unlocks final drive tuning. A six-speed race transmission can be a strong upgrade for cars with fewer gears, allowing full gear ratio tuning. Transmissions with more than seven gears are rarely recommended. The differential should always be upgraded as it's free and unlocks tuning, but the "sport diff" is not recommended.
For platform and handling, brakes are usually expensive and inefficient upgrades, unless a single level upgrade is cheap or free. Race brakes are typically for when PI points are spare. Suspension should generally be upgraded to race for higher classes or rally for off-road builds. Lower-class cars might benefit from stock or sport suspension to save PI for other upgrades. Rally suspension can be used on road cars for softer springs or more travel. Cars with stock four-wheel steering should retain it, meaning no suspension upgrade. Front and rear anti-roll bars should always be upgraded to their maximum as they are usually free and unlock valuable tuning. Chassis reinforcement is rarely meta-relevant for performance but can add ballast or stiffen the car.
Weight reduction is a significant upgrade if the PI budget allows. If near the class limit, a balance between power and weight reduction is necessary, requiring experimentation.
Finally, for engine upgrades, after other components are addressed, the remaining PI budget should be filled with power upgrades. Prioritize exhaust, intake, and displacement first, then fuel system, valves, pistons, ignition, and flywheel. Turbo and supercharger upgrades are typically reserved for when a large PI budget remains or when aiming to jump classes. Intake manifold, cams, oil/cooling, and intercooler upgrades are usually avoided unless there's a substantial extra budget.
The video concludes with final tips: use small budget upgrades (flywheel, driveshaft, wheel choice) to fine-tune PI, don't underestimate tire compound choice if a car feels too slow, and experiment with the balance of power versus weight reduction. Community advice is also recommended. The video then directs viewers to a companion tuning guide.
