This video is a comprehensive guide for beginners on how to drift in Forza Horizon 5. It covers essential aspects from selecting and building a drift car to tuning it, adjusting game settings, practicing drifting techniques, and troubleshooting common issues. The aim is to help viewers achieve higher drift scores and master drifting skills.
In terms of car selection, the video emphasizes that while rear-wheel drive is the sole mandatory requirement for drifting, certain characteristics can make the process more approachable. Lightweight, front-engined cars, particularly 90s Japanese classics like the FC RX-7, are suggested for a more "grassroots" build. These cars offer a good balance for learning. In contrast, high-power, high-steering-angle Formula Drift cars are noted as being excellent for achieving high drift scores and "three-starring" drift zones, but they are significantly more challenging for beginners to master. The core message is that while any RWD car can be set up to drift, some chassis are inherently more forgiving and conducive to learning.
When it comes to building the car, the video breaks down the essential parts. Almost universally, you'll want to install "drift" versions of suspension, differentials, and tires. The reasoning here is that these parts are specifically designed to facilitate sliding. However, there's a nuance with tires: while "drift tires" are generally the easiest option, especially for higher power builds, lower power builds might benefit from stock or street tires to achieve the necessary grip. For tandem driving, race brakes are specifically recommended due to their importance in fine-tuning braking for proximity. The transmission doesn't need to be overly complex; a standard 6-speed (sport or race) is usually sufficient.
Power is a major consideration, with a distinction made between builds for high scores and those for tandem driving. For maximizing drift scores, "the more power, the better," but this must be balanced with enough grip to be controllable. For tandem builds, a more moderate range of 350 to 500 horsepower is suggested. The video contextualizes this by comparing it to real-world drifting, where lower horsepower cars are often used, but acknowledges that Forza Horizon's larger tracks and wider corners allow for this power increase. Crucially, beginners are advised to stay at the lower end of this range, as excessive power can lead to poor habits and control issues.
A significant detail highlighted is the importance of tire width. Wider front tires help maintain front grip, which is vital for controlling the car's angle. Rear tire width is even more critical and requires fine-tuning. Too wide, and the car won't maintain revs or wheel speed. Too narrow, and the car will simply bounce off the limiter without control. The underlying principle is that drifting, especially with high power, is a constant battle to maximize rear tire grip. The goal is to find a rear tire width that suits the power level, and then further fine-tune grip within the tuning menu and tire pressure settings.
Moving into tuning, the differential settings offer a spectrum from a fully locked "welded diff" (100% lock on accel and decel) for easy, consistent slides, to a more typical LSD with high accel lock (85-95%) and low decel lock (0-40%). The author personally prefers 100% lock for most builds. Brake tuning is emphasized for tandems: moving all brake bias to the front wheels (which Forza denotes as rearward) and lowering the pressure significantly (around 30%) allows drivers to slow down without straightening out when close to another car.
Regarding suspension and alignment:
Gearing adjustments are particularly nuanced for high-power and tandem builds. The goal is to find a specific gear (often 3rd or 4th) where the car can maintain revs and drift speed. If you're hitting the limiter, the gear is too low; if you're bogging down, it's too high. Once found, all higher gears are compressed tightly towards this optimal drifting gear. This allows for easier up- and down-shifting mid-drift to modulate speed and angle without losing momentum.
Tire pressures are also critical. Fronts are typically around 30 psi, but can be lowered for a more four-wheel-drift effect. Rear tire pressure is key for fine-tuning rear grip: lower pressure means more grip and smoother slides, while higher pressure leads to sudden breakaways and less sustained drift. For most builds, running stock or lower rear tire pressure is advised. If you find yourself needing to significantly increase rear tire pressure just to maintain a drift, it indicates a potential issue with the build – perhaps too much grip from other components, or a need for more power or stiffer rear components.
Game settings are straightforward: turn off Stability and Traction Control. Manual transmission (even clutchless) is strongly recommended over automatic, as it allows for clutch-kicking and better control. Beginners can keep steering and ABS on normal.
Technique-wise, the video breaks down a drift into four stages: line, entry, drift, and exit/transition. Handbrake entries are presented as a beginner's tool, involving turning into the corner while holding the handbrake, counter-steering as weight shifts, and modulating the handbrake to maintain the slide. As proficiency grows, the reliance on the handbrake should decrease, shifting towards weight transfer entries.
Counter-steering is repeatedly stressed as the "glue" of drifting, and its subtlety is hard to teach. It involves constantly adjusting steering input in the opposite direction of the drift. For controller players, this often means rapid tapping, while wheel users will have smoother, continuous adjustments. Feathering the throttle is also vital – drifting isn't about just flooring it. More throttle increases speed and angle; foot braking slows the car and brings it inside the corner; the handbrake can lock wheels to extend a drift.
The most common issues for beginners are insufficient counter-steering (often too late) and poor throttle control. If a car has too much grip and spins out, the advice is to add more grip-reducing elements (stiffer rear springs/ARBs, lower rear tire pressure, lower diff lock) until comfortable, then gradually adjust from there. Conversely, if the car is too loose, the opposite adjustments are made. The overarching theme is that consistent practice ("seat time") is more valuable than any specific build or technique, and finding a personal style is key.
