This video debunks the common "float test" for determining hair porosity, explaining why it's inaccurate. The speaker, a professional hairstylist, introduces a grading system (1-5) used in the industry to assess hair porosity based on its condition and how it reacts to treatments. The video aims to educate viewers on understanding their hair's porosity to better choose products and care routines.
The video debunks the common "float test" for determining hair porosity, explaining why it's inaccurate. The speaker, a professional hairstylist named Mell, introduces a grading system (1-5) used in the industry to assess hair porosity based on its condition and how it reacts to treatments. The video aims to educate viewers on understanding their hair's porosity to better choose products and care routines.
Mell begins by stating that the popular "float test," where a strand of hair is placed in water to see if it sinks or floats, is inaccurate. She explains that this is because hair texture affects its molecular weight, causing it to react differently in water regardless of porosity. Environmental factors and hair treatments can also influence the outcome.
She then introduces a professional grading system for hair porosity, which ranges from grade 1 (extreme low porosity) to grade 5 (extreme high porosity).
Mell shares that her own hair is a grade 3/4 due to bleaching her ends, and she actively treats and trims her hair to maintain its health. She emphasizes that grade 4 hair, while concerning, can be improved with strengthening treatments and cuticle sealing. She strongly advises against reaching grade 5.
The video also touches on the difference between regular conditioners and leave-in conditioners, noting that some conditioners may contain cleansing agents or sulfates and are not meant to be left in the hair, unlike dedicated leave-in conditioners.
Finally, Mell promotes her upcoming video and encourages viewers to subscribe for notifications.
Here is the verbatim transcription of the video, along with descriptions of what is shown on the screen:
Verbatim Transcription & Screen Descriptions:
(0:00-0:06) Mell: okay everybody it's time you finally heard it from me a professional hairstylist that deals with all types of hair everyday behind my chair
(0:06-0:13) Mell: we're gonna be having a one-on-one discussion some real talks if you will about hair atrocity hair porosity
(0:13-0:20) Mell: it is very confusing to so many people it's a topic that is very commonly brought up in the curly hair community
(0:20-0:29) Mell: as we are known to have higher porosity hair but what does that really mean it's important to understand what our hair porosity is
(0:29-0:44) Mell: so we can determine what types of products we need to be using in our hair to get perfect results now here's the issue there's a lot of things going on in the interwebs
(0:44-1:12) Mell: I see it all over Instagram and YouTube people are doing this thing it's it's a test people doing this test or you take a strand of hair from your heads and you place it in a glass of water and depending on if it sinks or if it floats that will determine your hair porosity
(1:12-1:16) [Music]
(1:16-1:25) Mell: it's all a hoax I'm sorry and I'm sorry okay I don't mean to crush your dreams but it's true this is not going to give you accurate results why won't this give you an accurate result
(1:25-1:38) Mell: well because your hair depending on its texture will have a different molecular weight and will react differently in the water regardless so many other things that can cause your hair to sink or to float in water
(1:38-1:50) Mell: okay so save the water for drinking and I'm gonna explain to you guys what porosity in the hair really means and how we can determine it from a hairstylist perspective
(1:50-2:00) Mell: there is a grading system and I'm gonna explain all of it so get your notepads out and let's get to it
(2:00-2:12) Mell: for those of you that don't know me I am mains by Mel I'm a hair stylist I am a curly hair guru and I am your main girl
(2:12-2:23) Mell: and my goal my civic duty is to give you guys the nitty gritty scientific actual facts as I know these things I have studied them I work with them
(2:23-2:33) Mell: I know what I'm talking about and I want you guys to understand what I'm talking about so we can all succeed and be great okay so let's get to it
(2:33-2:51) Mell: your porosity changes when you alter your hair chemically or with heat let me say that loud of other people in the back porosity changes when you chemically alter your hair or use heat on it
(2:51-3:02) Mell: or you're changing something in your hair okay for my unicorns out there people that have never colored there hair and the people that don't have any heat to their hair you're good
(3:02-3:11) Mell: this video is not going to really concern you because you're gonna be a lower grade of porosity grade no what does it mean
(3:11-3:23) Mell: what does it mean when the hue porosity all we know is high medium low normal we've never heard grade what is the porosity grade how do I get an A I'm gonna explain this to you
(3:23-3:43) Mell: now the information I will be providing you all with this come from my imagination this is information that I have attained from the American board-certified hair colourists so these are some facts in the professional world we actually grade hair porosity
(3:43-3:55) Mell: so from grade one to five one would be the extreme low porosity five would be the extreme high porosity and I'm going to explain how you know where you are in the level system
(3:55-4:13) Mell: depending on what your prosity is and I'm going to explain kind of what to feel for in your hair because guys porosity is a feeling it's something you feel and it's something you see it's something you know
(4:13-4:20) Mell: because think about all of the things that you done to your hair it's like the more that you've done to your hair probably the higher porosity you are but I'm gonna get to that specifically
(4:20-4:30) Mell: just know that you can't rely on a test of water and you can't just look at someone else that has hair similar to you and assume that you guys have the same porosity okay so let's dive into the grading system
(4:30-4:52) Mell: grade one our little first graders you guys are the virgin hairs that are the lowest type of porosity you are sold on porosity which means your cuticle is so damn tight that there's almost no water or moisture entering into it
(4:52-5:11) Mell: this is what you can literally see the water sitting on top of your hair in little chocolates this person is very rare to come by because most people have some sort of change that happens to their hair
(5:11-5:26) Mell: whether it be not only from adding hair color or chemical treatments or heat but even environmental factors like the Sun or even pollution in the air can affect your hair
(5:26-5:34) Mell: so for you to be a grade one the lowest lowest lowest grade you were probably kept in hibernation you don't see the Sun much and you don't do anything to your virgin untouched natural hair
(5:34-5:43) Mell: this hair appears to be shiny it has a natural shine to it and if you run your finger down a hair strand you will actually feel smooth
(5:43-5:54) Mell: now we're gonna move on to number two number two is most people with virgin hair because most people do slows themselves to the Sun they also maybe occasionally Flatiron their hair or heats out of their hair
(5:54-6:01) Mell: maybe blow-dry or maybe they have some color in the hair but it's not a drastic difference it's only maybe up to three levels later
(6:01-6:10) Mell: and so you're on the grade two your hair is pretty normal you can wash it fine and you can condition it but you'll be able to work through your hair without a conditioner
(6:10-6:17) Mell: so when you know you can detangle your hair without conditioner you have a pretty low porosity your cuticle is very well intact any hair is going to be typically stronger
(6:17-6:22) Mell: now we're starting to get a little bit more aggressive we're gonna talk about grade 3
(6:22-6:38) Mell: grade three is right in the middle of the safe zone so with grade 3 hair porosity you have maybe lightened your hair up to five shades and levels lighter than your natural color so because you're up to five levels lighter your hair has gone through quite some chemical processing
(6:38-6:59) Mell: it is now compromised and it needs conditioning and he's thorough conditioning to work through and at this point you definitely require some leave-in products after don't be alarmed if you're in grade 3 it's totally fine your hair is going to be ok
(6:59-7:19) Mell: your hair's not going to break off there's still enough cuticle that it is going to be strong enough but what you need to be making sure that you're doing is treatments to maintain this hair that's what I mean by thorough conditioning it's not just your regular shampoo and condition
(7:19-7:25) Mell: you need to be deep conditioning you need thorough treatments and you need to determine what your hair is needs are whether that be protein or moisture hints it's probably both
(7:25-7:35) Mell: so that was getting a little aggressive grade fours when you're being excessive on your hair when you're at grade 4 your hair has probably been lightened over 7 levels
(7:35-7:48) Mell: so if you are really really dark naturally and now you're over blonde you're probably within the grade 4 maybe you in grade 5 area so once a look out for when your hair is in the great four area is that your hair is quite compromised it is frizzy
(7:48-8:09) Mell: you can't just shampoo and condition you absolutely need a leave-in otherwise you will notice that the hair will expand as it dries at this stage your hair has been through a lot and you're actually big to see a loss of cuticle bits of your cuticle remember the cuticle looks like shingles on a roof so little bits are going to be flaking off
(8:09-8:25) Mell: wherever there's flaked off bits of cuticle the hair strand is extremely weakened in those areas if and when you get to grade four porosity you will be experiencing breakage however it can be mended with the proper treatments so great for hair can be saved
(8:25-8:31) Mell: but you need to do a lot of work to it and you have to realize that that cuticle layer is leaving and you need to stop now because you don't want to get to grade 5
(8:31-8:46) Mell: grade 5 grade 5 it's really part core okay this is a scary place to be in grade 5 feels like gum yeah Amanda just made a face behind the camera yeah it's gross
(8:46-9:03) Mell: the hair will literally feel gummy when it's wet and guess what the hair will be pulling apart at this stage there is no cuticle left on the hair the hair is likely very light or white which means there is no color left in the hair
(9:03-9:27) Mell: there is no cuticle left in there all you're seeing is the inner medulla the hair actually becomes gelatinize that's why you feel like it's gummy and it feels extremely soft but so soft that the hair is literally falling apart this is a very scary place to be in
(9:27-9:56) Mell: I have personally never experienced this I have never created this on someone's head but I have had clients come in and I have seen the result of some of left on the ends and it is a scary place to be this hair will not stay on your head if you brush your hair it will break off onto your brush you will see your hair falling out
(9:56-10:09) Mell: the only treatment that will fix grade 5 hair is a stainless steel treatment you need to cut it it's true it's disturbing believe I'm at this vision she's yeah that's a great five hair prostitute will do this
(10:09-10:29) Mell: hair will also react very weird to color it will absorb color very weird and it'll spin out color and any moisture that you add to it will also spit back out nothing nothing can revive this hair this hair is dead and gone so don't get to grade five hair
(10:29-10:56) Mell: so my hair let me explain I am a grade 3/4 why is that my natural color I'm a natural level 5 5 and I have bleached my ends to a 9/10 some of the ends are a 10 which means they've gone 4 to 5 levels later some of my ends have gone through a lot of damage
(10:56-11:16) Mell: they may have been in grade 4 at one point but i religously treat and trim my hair so it brings that hair back to health great for hair if you're in the grade 4 area it can be a scary place but you can make it better make sure that you are doing your strengthening treatments and sealing your cuticle
(11:16-11:28) Mell: I have videos on this take it from me your virtual hairstylist or even your real hair stylist if you come visit me in Toronto I got you ok so I really hope that you guys have learned something new today that I have provided some different insight a new perspective on porosity
(11:28-11:35) Mell: so after all that let's close off the video with this week's positive comment from tiara hots you're a new subscriber and I welcome you
(11:35-11:48) Mell: then question the week comes from she's asking what is the difference between leaving and conditioner and using a leave-in conditioner the answer is the ingredients
(11:48-12:12) Mell: some conditioners even contain cleansing agents some conditioners contain sulfates they're meant to be used to cleanse and condition at the same time you don't want to be leaving those in your hair whereas other conditioners are simply meant to condition and moisturize the hair sometimes these can be left in but there is a reason why there are leave-in conditioners so you're better off sticking with the leave-in
(12:12-12:23) Mell: okay so guys guys hi this video is only an interlude to prolog it will help you with next week's video next week's video I'm very excited I'm very excited it is going to be a jam-packed video it's gonna be mind-blowing
(12:23-12:38) Mell: you need this video make sure you are subscribed if you are not already so you give the post notifications I will see you guys next Tuesday I am very excited for you guys thank you for any yell with me today until next time we're on we are live
(12:38-13:55) [Various outro segments, music, and channel branding]