The BIGGEST Misunderstanding In Climbing Training // Alex Johnson

About this video

• Video Title: The BIGGEST Misunderstanding In Climbing Training // Alex Johnson
• Channel: The Struggle Climbing Show
• Speakers: Alex Johnson
• Duration: 00:08:13

Overview

This video discusses a common misunderstanding in climbing training, particularly regarding the concept of "power." Alex Johnson explains that power is not just about lifting more weight, but rather about applying strength at speed. The video also touches on the importance of periodization in training, avoiding plateaus, and the typical duration of different training phases.

Key takeaways

• Power is Speed: True power in climbing, and in sports generally, is the ability to use existing strength quickly. It's about combining strength with speed.
• Training Phases are Crucial: Climbing training benefits from structured phases (strength, power, power endurance, endurance) to ensure continuous progress and avoid plateaus.
• Avoid Ego in Training: Reducing weight during power-focused exercises doesn't signify weakness; it's a strategic method to train for speed and fast-twitch muscle activation.
• Adaptation and Plateaus: The body adapts to consistent stressors. To continue progressing, training methods need to be varied to prevent plateaus.
• Phase Duration: A common structure involves 3-6 week phases for strength and power, with power endurance also around 4 weeks. Peak performance is typically achieved after a taper/deload period of about a week, leading to a peak phase of 3-4 weeks.